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That Montjuic of mine
- Thread starter AndyB_11
- Start date
Shims now ordered 
There was 0.25mm variation between the shim sizes needed which isn’t bad considering it’s a different head and 3 of the valves were very obviously a different vintage to the rest. Am I confident I’ve got them right? Well I’ve put the numbers on a spread sheet and stared at them for over 1 hour until I was happy with what I’d got and the clearances were checked twice then if there was a difference of more than the tolerance I checked them a third time.
There was 0.25mm variation between the shim sizes needed which isn’t bad considering it’s a different head and 3 of the valves were very obviously a different vintage to the rest. Am I confident I’ve got them right? Well I’ve put the numbers on a spread sheet and stared at them for over 1 hour until I was happy with what I’d got and the clearances were checked twice then if there was a difference of more than the tolerance I checked them a third time.
That’s what one of the guys on the Laverda forum said he uses, I’ll be putting a cable tie on to increase the length when I change the shims and hopefully that’ll ensure it doesn’t move on the crankshaft sprocket.
The locking circlip pliers worked ok but I’m not going to deny panicking when I dropped one end of the chain down into the bowels of the engine
Us cyclists have a special tool for holding chains, by Park Tools. It might not be sturdy enough but it’s great for fitting and removing the master link in a cycle chain. https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-...CW3bngYHq2mbnJeLWkYP1Utup5zp4dGEaAhOTEALw_wcB
That’s set the new tool alarm off
- Joined
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- Messages
- 8,676
- Reaction score
- 467
That’s set the new tool alarm off
You can buy a lot of cable ties for £15.
Step away from the keyboard
I’m resisting by drinking home brew 
The shims are now officially ordered along with a couple of extras in the larger sizes because now I’m heading back to work I’ve got access to a surface grinder and a very small 3 jaw chuck to mount on it and hold the shims. I can machine the chuck jaws so they don’t pinch the shims and if I need to modify a couple I can do them with no risk of them going airborne
I’ve given the chromed mudguard bracket 3 coats of acid etch primer and done the same to the somewhat faded plastic cover that goes over the starter motor. They’ll both be getting sprayed with 2K satin black when I do the exhausts and associated clamps.
I’m hoping to get the engine finished when I get a couple of days off but I’m back on 12 days on 2 days off for about 6 weeks so time is the enemy. I’m collecting the wheels on Saturday morning so I’ll fit the new shims and bearings then they’ll go straight in and I’ll bleed the brakes at the same time.
I know I’ll have missed something but it does seem to be getting closer to completion
I should have added that I was talking to a guy on the phone today who rebuilt the top end on his engine a few months ago and his recommendation is to put small centre dot marks on the cam sprockets opposite the high points, set it to the standard timing marks then work back from there to set the valve opening/closing positions with a degree wheel. He said he wasted hours going down the same route as me and since running it on a dyno he now has the best setting for producing power that starts lower in the rev range then tails off where the red line is rather than having a peaky engine which is fuck all use without the close ratio gearbox. He’s going to email me the settings later and I’ll put the cams in my lathe, find the high points and count back on the teeth to set the references. Every tooth is a touch over 10.5 degrees so even a fool like me should be able to work it out
I’ve given the chromed mudguard bracket 3 coats of acid etch primer and done the same to the somewhat faded plastic cover that goes over the starter motor. They’ll both be getting sprayed with 2K satin black when I do the exhausts and associated clamps.
I’m hoping to get the engine finished when I get a couple of days off but I’m back on 12 days on 2 days off for about 6 weeks so time is the enemy. I’m collecting the wheels on Saturday morning so I’ll fit the new shims and bearings then they’ll go straight in and I’ll bleed the brakes at the same time.
I know I’ll have missed something but it does seem to be getting closer to completion
I should have added that I was talking to a guy on the phone today who rebuilt the top end on his engine a few months ago and his recommendation is to put small centre dot marks on the cam sprockets opposite the high points, set it to the standard timing marks then work back from there to set the valve opening/closing positions with a degree wheel. He said he wasted hours going down the same route as me and since running it on a dyno he now has the best setting for producing power that starts lower in the rev range then tails off where the red line is rather than having a peaky engine which is fuck all use without the close ratio gearbox. He’s going to email me the settings later and I’ll put the cams in my lathe, find the high points and count back on the teeth to set the references. Every tooth is a touch over 10.5 degrees so even a fool like me should be able to work it out
The shims are now officially ordered along with a couple of extras in the larger sizes because now I’m heading back to work I’ve got access to a surface grinder and a very small 3 jaw chuck to mount on it and hold the shims. I can machine the chuck jaws so they don’t pinch the shims and if I need to modify a couple I can do them with no risk of them going airborne
I’ve given the chromed mudguard bracket 3 coats of acid etch primer and done the same to the somewhat faded plastic cover that goes over the starter motor. They’ll both be getting sprayed with 2K satin black when I do the exhausts and associated clamps.
I’m hoping to get the engine finished when I get a couple of days off but I’m back on 12 days on 2 days off for about 6 weeks so time is the enemy. I’m collecting the wheels on Saturday morning so I’ll fit the new shims and bearings then they’ll go straight in and I’ll bleed the brakes at the same time.
I know I’ll have missed something but it does seem to be getting closer to completion
I should have added that I was talking to a guy on the phone today who rebuilt the top end on his engine a few months ago and his recommendation is to put small centre dot marks on the cam sprockets opposite the high points, set it to the standard timing marks then work back from there to set the valve opening/closing positions with a degree wheel. He said he wasted hours going down the same route as me and since running it on a dyno he now has the best setting for producing power that starts lower in the rev range then tails off where the red line is rather than having a peaky engine which is fuck all use without the close ratio gearbox. He’s going to email me the settings later and I’ll put the cams in my lathe, find the high points and count back on the teeth to set the references. Every tooth is a touch over 10.5 degrees so even a fool like me should be able to work it out
You could always let the Mrs finish it off for you;
You could always let the Mrs finish it off for you;
Have you forgotten that you’ve met her a few times?
It can wait
Back to being officially pissed off again.
I went to pick up my wheels this morning and the list of fuck ups is almost endless.
Tyres mounted on the wrong wheels
Disc hubs not painted
Rear caliper mount casting initially lost, now found but not painted
Paint all over the speedo drive gear
Paint in the bores that take the bearings
All of those can be easily sorted, I didn’t really look at the wheels until I got home but I’ve now cleaned the drive gear, painted the disc hubs and I’ll do the caliper mounting later.
That’s not the worst, potential show stopper, by a long way. The **** has lost the cush drive/sprocket carrier assembly. Not painting it I could deal with, I’d just get silver Hammerite and use that but no, he’s fucking lost it and his final comment was “don’t worry mate, we’ll find it or pay for a new one.” My final comment was “where the fuck do you know I’ll find one?”
I’d been hoping to get the wheels in and bleed the brakes today but the useless fucker has stopped that.
Rant over, I’ll do what I can. I can spray the exhaust system tomorrow plus spray the disc hubs and the caliper mounting and I’ll probably put the front wheel in and bleed the front brakes. The tyres are an irrelevance really because I was always going to put new ones on, these are just so I can move it around once the engine is back in.
Actually no, one last rant. I’ll fucking batter him senseless if he doesn’t find my fucking parts
I went to pick up my wheels this morning and the list of fuck ups is almost endless.
Tyres mounted on the wrong wheels
Disc hubs not painted
Rear caliper mount casting initially lost, now found but not painted
Paint all over the speedo drive gear
Paint in the bores that take the bearings
All of those can be easily sorted, I didn’t really look at the wheels until I got home but I’ve now cleaned the drive gear, painted the disc hubs and I’ll do the caliper mounting later.
That’s not the worst, potential show stopper, by a long way. The **** has lost the cush drive/sprocket carrier assembly. Not painting it I could deal with, I’d just get silver Hammerite and use that but no, he’s fucking lost it and his final comment was “don’t worry mate, we’ll find it or pay for a new one.” My final comment was “where the fuck do you know I’ll find one?”
I’d been hoping to get the wheels in and bleed the brakes today but the useless fucker has stopped that.
Rant over, I’ll do what I can. I can spray the exhaust system tomorrow plus spray the disc hubs and the caliper mounting and I’ll probably put the front wheel in and bleed the front brakes. The tyres are an irrelevance really because I was always going to put new ones on, these are just so I can move it around once the engine is back in.
Actually no, one last rant. I’ll fucking batter him senseless if he doesn’t find my fucking parts
Has this clown any idea of what he's working on ???
I'm so far into this rebuild that he's also pissed me off. I was expecting big bits back together this weekend..'don't worry mate'...what a bell end.
A pint is needed, tomorrow is another day.....
That's fuckin shite; i know your handy at doing your own kit; so i can only imagined you farmed this out as a ball ache and time consuming job to get on with other stuff; the guy sounds like a could'nt give a fuck sort to be honest; hope it all comes together soon .
I’ve calmed down a bit and I’ve returned to the house for a pint of home brew while I watch F1 qualifying in the rain at the Red Bull Ring
So far I’ve cleaned the bearing bores, removed all excess paint and fitted spacers, shims and bearings.
I’ve cleaned and acid etched the rear caliper mounting.
Cleaned and primed the disc hubs.
Cleaned and primed all the tatty looking tab washers.
I’m going to do the disc hubs with the same 2k heat resistant satin black paint I’ve got for the exhaust system because they’re cast iron discs and I don’t want heat transference fucking the paint and the discs could really do with a skim to remove the ridge either side of the swept area, they’re in limit so will stand a bit off them. Once they’re mounted on the wheels I’ll give them a spin and clock them to check runout before making that call because I’d sooner have a bit of brake pulsing than take them a lot below minimum thickness. The other option is to get some bespoke floating discs made and say thank you to HMG for giving employers a grand if they bring back employees from furlough
I’m still pissed off about the missing parts but I can bleed the brakes and make progress before I’m arrested for assault on Monday.
So far I’ve cleaned the bearing bores, removed all excess paint and fitted spacers, shims and bearings.
I’ve cleaned and acid etched the rear caliper mounting.
Cleaned and primed the disc hubs.
Cleaned and primed all the tatty looking tab washers.
I’m going to do the disc hubs with the same 2k heat resistant satin black paint I’ve got for the exhaust system because they’re cast iron discs and I don’t want heat transference fucking the paint and the discs could really do with a skim to remove the ridge either side of the swept area, they’re in limit so will stand a bit off them. Once they’re mounted on the wheels I’ll give them a spin and clock them to check runout before making that call because I’d sooner have a bit of brake pulsing than take them a lot below minimum thickness. The other option is to get some bespoke floating discs made and say thank you to HMG for giving employers a grand if they bring back employees from furlough
I’m still pissed off about the missing parts but I can bleed the brakes and make progress before I’m arrested for assault on Monday.
That's fuckin shite; i know your handy at doing your own kit; so i can only imagined you farmed this out as a ball ache and time consuming job to get on with other stuff; the guy sounds like a could'nt give a fuck sort to be honest; hope it all comes together soon .
He’s the son of a friend and the wheels were originally going elsewhere but he’d got hardly any work on because of lockdown so I gave them to him as a favour. He’s a good lad but he really annoyed me this morning and I know if I phone his dad he’ll be sent in to find the parts then bring them over but I don’t want to involve a friend.
There's a reason for avoiding friends and family for work issues; if my lad was doing some work for a mate of mine; and replied to him in a shrug of the shoulders fashion; i would be adjusting his tappets with the toe of my fuckin boot;
What a fuck up Andy,to be honest,considering it's a rare part that has gone missing,I would definitely ring his old man and politely tell him what's happened and ask him if there's any chance he could help.If he's anywhere near decent he will understand.
Good luck mate
Good luck mate
Calling Dad won’t be necessary on Monday because he’ll be there and I’d sooner he found out then rather than fuck his weekend up.
I’ve been going mad with the spray cans and might even get to the point where I can get the wheels in tonight, bleed the brakes in the morning then get the bikes out and go for a whizz around the local B roads with maybe a beer in a pub garden thrown in for good measure
I’ve been going mad with the spray cans and might even get to the point where I can get the wheels in tonight, bleed the brakes in the morning then get the bikes out and go for a whizz around the local B roads with maybe a beer in a pub garden thrown in for good measure
That’s it then, I’ve finished for the time being. I’ll get a few things done whenever I’m home but the weeks of messing with bikes have come to an end.
The exhaust system is finished and though it’s not brilliant it’ll do.
The discs are now on the wheels but I think I’ll ditch the existing bolts and tab washers then fit pre-drilled stainless capheads so if I put it on a track I can lock wire them with no hassle.
The wheels are now in the bike but I’ve not bothered bleeding the brakes. I’ve got dust cover clips with loops to hold the brake lines in place ordered plus two nifty little yellow Marzocchi stickers for the forks because I’m a tart.
I was going to take a photo of the rear wheel showing the void where the cush drive assembly should have been but I’m still a bit narked about that so didn’t bother.
The exhaust system is finished and though it’s not brilliant it’ll do.
The discs are now on the wheels but I think I’ll ditch the existing bolts and tab washers then fit pre-drilled stainless capheads so if I put it on a track I can lock wire them with no hassle.
The wheels are now in the bike but I’ve not bothered bleeding the brakes. I’ve got dust cover clips with loops to hold the brake lines in place ordered plus two nifty little yellow Marzocchi stickers for the forks because I’m a tart.
I was going to take a photo of the rear wheel showing the void where the cush drive assembly should have been but I’m still a bit narked about that so didn’t bother.
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