Does anyone know what the difference in the suspension units are between standard ride height and lowered suspension models. Is it the same unit just set up differently or is it a completely different unit? I am finding my new R1250GS ultimate a little too high for comfort . It came with a standard height saddle which is very comfortable. A friend has lent me a low saddle to try (haven't had a chance yet) that will drop the saddle height a bit. but doesn't look as comfortable. I have also ordered some of the Wunderlich seat bobbins that lower the front of the seat further, I assume the only difference is the rear suspension unit that determines whether it is a standard ride height or a low suspension model. Some guidance would be appreciated.
Technical question regarding standard and lowered suspension on a 2023 R1250GS
- Thread starter Rokraider
- Start date
The factory lowered suspension units have springs that are 20mm shorter than standard. That takes the seat height down to 830mm. The factory low seat is IIRC either 20mm or 30mm thinner than the standard seat, so bothbtakevthe seat height down to around 800-810mm. I've had 3 factory lowered GS' and found the seat to be comfortable enough for a 3hr ride.
Another option is to get some Daytona M Star boots which have a footbed with 25mm extra on the heal and 8mm on the rest of the foot. Very conmfortable from the get go and some of the best boots money can buy.
Another option is to get some Daytona M Star boots which have a footbed with 25mm extra on the heal and 8mm on the rest of the foot. Very conmfortable from the get go and some of the best boots money can buy.
Its smoke and mirrors when it comes to seat height on the LC GS
Its 30mm lower on the factory low option - the spring and stroke are shorter. So in theory it should be 800-810 as Littleade says..
But, and its a big but! the bike is 60mm wider than the hexhead, so any gains in height reduction are effectively lost due to leg arc. DAMHIK
In order of seat height Low
1200GS Hexhead 2004 - 2007 Std seat height 855mm low seat = 825mm low suspension & low seat =795mm
1200GS Hexhead 2008 - 2009 Std seat height 872mm low seat =843mm low suspension & low seat =813mm
1200GS Hexhead TC 2010 - 2012 Std seat height 882mm low seat =852mm low suspension & low seat =822mm
1200GS Hexhead TC 2013 - 2016 Std seat height 875mm low seat =845mm low suspension & low seat =815mm
There is however a solution, they do an ultralow seat which looses another about another 30mm off the seat
1200GS Hexhead TC 2013 - 2016 Std seat height 875mm low seat =825mm low suspension & ultralow seat =786mm give or take
hope this helps
Its 30mm lower on the factory low option - the spring and stroke are shorter. So in theory it should be 800-810 as Littleade says..
But, and its a big but! the bike is 60mm wider than the hexhead, so any gains in height reduction are effectively lost due to leg arc. DAMHIK
In order of seat height Low
1200GS Hexhead 2004 - 2007 Std seat height 855mm low seat = 825mm low suspension & low seat =795mm
1200GS Hexhead 2008 - 2009 Std seat height 872mm low seat =843mm low suspension & low seat =813mm
1200GS Hexhead TC 2010 - 2012 Std seat height 882mm low seat =852mm low suspension & low seat =822mm
1200GS Hexhead TC 2013 - 2016 Std seat height 875mm low seat =845mm low suspension & low seat =815mm
There is however a solution, they do an ultralow seat which looses another about another 30mm off the seat
1200GS Hexhead TC 2013 - 2016 Std seat height 875mm low seat =825mm low suspension & ultralow seat =786mm give or take
hope this helps
Thankyou for your replies. So is it the same shock absorber unit at its core,with a shorter spring fitted that lowers the ride height?
I find the factory low seat pretty comfortable, much more so than the standard height GSA seat on my 2022 model bike
Shorter spring & internal rod
the part number is different, but in essence its the same unit with different internals
And if you want to change ride height via the shocks, you need to change front & rear, to keep the ride height & geometry correct
otherwise the handling of the bike is not quite right
Presumably a shorter spring and rod will mean reduced suspension travel?
The Daytona M-Star boots as mentioned earlier will help, you might also want to consider a Wunderlich Low seat, this is lower still than the factory low seat and (personally) I find more comfortable (I also have a Cool Cover on mine). I did have the lower seat bungs which I see you have opted for, however I found that I kept sliding forward down the seat on them, so reverted to the standard bungs with the Wunderlich Low seat
What he said
Indeed they are. 30mm lower units
They are, I sometimes have a hell of a problem getting the sidestand down due to road camber when abroad.
Not sure if the 1250 Is the same as the 1200, but on the 1200 there's a high & low suspension setting (+ auto).
The factory lowered bike retains the leg stretch from seat to pegs where a lowered seat cramps the legs/ knees more. This can be overcome with something like Wunderlich lowered foot pegs. Personally I’d pop these on any bike as it’s so much more comfortable and relaxed to ride distance for any sized rider.
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Thankyou for all your suggestions. I had a look at the Daytona M-Star boots at https://www.motolegends.com, where they kindly let me try on a couple of sizes. but unfortunately my calves and ankles are too big for them, although I like the principle and believe they would be an answer. Looking at the bike. it has rods operating a ride height sensor on the units that presumably monitor the ride height. I wondered if they were modified, would the ride height be adjusted, by tricking the electronics to change the ride height?
I’m no means an expert in this but as I understand it the ride height isn’t adjusted as such and possibly more a reduction in preload which lets the bike sit lower and maybe only at the rear?
Based on that would “tricking” the suspension , sit the back end down and have a detrimental effect on the geometry of the bike?
Sure someone more knowledgeable will know if that’s the case
This guy explains how the suspension works.
Based on that would “tricking” the suspension , sit the back end down and have a detrimental effect on the geometry of the bike?
Sure someone more knowledgeable will know if that’s the case
This guy explains how the suspension works.
The factory lowered bikes have suspension units with springs that are 20mm shorter so the bike sits 20mm lower to the ground than the standard bike. This is seperate to the preload adjustment as both the standard and lowered bikes have it (if you have ESA). That has 3 positions, min, max and auto. I normally rode mine in auto so the bike keeps the height the same irrespective of the weight of the rider (and passenger) . You can select minimum which then lowers the bike but this can only be done while the bike is stationary and IIRC with the engine running so you can't do it on the fly like the new 1300 does (automatically) it's useful if you're on steep narrow roads to help if you have to stop etc but I've not used that option during normal riding at speed as once off the steep inclines I stopped and put mine back on auto. I'd be intersted if others have ridden on min on normal roads at NSLs to know if the bike handles any different to auto. HTH
I’ve only ever ridden my GS and GSA in Auto.
Reason for me suggesting adjusting the rod may have a detrimental effect is something I experienced a good few years ago on an FJR1300. When two up with luggage I’d move a lever that the FJR had to increase the rear preload. On one occasion I forgot to make the adjustment. First I knew was having to put a lot more effort in to get around a corner. I stopped thinking I had an issue with the bike, it really was that noticeable.
I learned that day how much difference the arse of the bike sitting down and effectively changing the angle of the forks could make.
Reason for me suggesting adjusting the rod may have a detrimental effect is something I experienced a good few years ago on an FJR1300. When two up with luggage I’d move a lever that the FJR had to increase the rear preload. On one occasion I forgot to make the adjustment. First I knew was having to put a lot more effort in to get around a corner. I stopped thinking I had an issue with the bike, it really was that noticeable.
I learned that day how much difference the arse of the bike sitting down and effectively changing the angle of the forks could make.
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