GPX - Criss-Crossing Caminos - Spain & Portugal

[G&T]

Look over me



Sintra Lisbon. Late start today dealing with the Toll people and it’s a big ride day too. My riding seems to be getting sloppy. Maybe fatigue? Perhaps all curved out and my mental corner arithmetic is showing it? I’m at the point of trying different techniques to keep me switched on – ridiculous!

Time to blast back West across country.

I notice I have a new riding style on the big straight toll sections. Being 6’,1”, setting cruise control to ‘on’ and pulling an arm in to rest it on the tank provides a bit of comfort for my back. It might look an odd sight to cars I pass but what do I care. 4-5 hour stints on D’WFR starts to become hard and boring. I need to concentrate!

Now through the city of Lisbon and past the magnificent Stadio da Luz home of FC Benfica.



I quite like city riding, plenty of things to observe and before I know it, Sintra, a small town West of the city with a charming atmosphere and full of those cobble stones that are so wonderful when it’s steep and wet – thankfully it’s not today! Think of Sintra as a Portmerion lookalike as well as the Comfy Hotel.




Monchique. I’m in a holiday mood today heading for the Algarve. But first it’s breakfast time. Decided to skip lunch most days except for the odd ‘Tuck biscuit’ so breakfast and dinner are big events in my day.



Nobody at the table this morning could have imagined what would happen just a few days later in Israel, certainly not the doting Israeli mother and father I had the pleasure of sharing stories with. They tell me about and share photos of their beautiful young boy who has just started National Service and how they plan exciting travels with him after. I pray he makes it.



Bad traffic back through Lisbon but my day is lightened as I pass a ‘Deutsche plate’ GSA, full black panzer edition waiting in traffic, as once again I squeeze through – hell yeah!

Little did I think or embarrassingly know, I’d get the same lifetime experience in Portugal as a previous trip in Rio. Riding South, over the Lisbon bridge, the Cristo Rei towers over me and D’WFR and it all feels rather emotional. I gently tap her tank – “thank you,” I murmur as we roll free on to our next adventure.



Numb ass hours later and easing into Monchique and the Albergaria du Lageado hotel, Nav 6 starts to display the you know what – ghosting! Maybe the heat?



But, I’m here rather than stuck in the middle of nowhere and a PIRI PIRI and chips somewhere has my name on it.

 

[G&T]

Get busy living



Carvoeiro. Setting off with a jittery Nav is not what one wants first thing in the morning, but mooching today, so no big deal. Lagos is the first point of call, however with boots, jackets etc. it’s just too damn hot.

I’ve got so used to moving on the bike, I actually prefer it, but sometimes when you do stop, little moments of magic happen. Next Ferragudo, a charming little seaside town and there I meet Odete. Resting in the shade at a little café I glance across to a cottage and a cat taking its place for its leisurely siesta. The lady there caught my smile and returned it with the sort of soft smile in her eyes that has seen life. I enjoy talking with people and the road enhances that for me it seems. I explain how my wife loves cats and that it was a reminder of home. She opens to how she is looking after her 90 year old mother but deep down I can see her youth and spirit weighed down by her responsibility. My being there was as much a tonic for me as it was for her. Thank you Odete.




There is big money in Ferragudo & Carvoeiro if the houses are anything to go by. I can’t help myself looking at estate agents. Sal has checked me in to the Carvoeiro hotel for two nights, pool and beach nearby but something really is missing and of course it’s Sally.

Ah well, tomorrow I’ll be ‘walking on the beaches looking at the peaches!’





Tavira. Its East time now and a short jump toward Tavira, but damn its hot 37C, so as I’m in holiday mode its T-shirt only motorbike travelling time. I know… I know. First Silves for breakfast, then a skip through Albufeira.





It is so nice riding a big bad ass bike in a tourist area when normally it’s a scooter!

Today, I had the officious man at the reception of Quinta do Morgado, “Do this, don’t do that” etc. Another two nights here and a mooch around the Eastern Algarve and Tavira. Now this feels much more local and the icing on the cake - the Nav is behaving. Thank goodness, I have some big mile days ahead.






The restaurant’s gig opposite my accommodation has arrived. It’s 2.30am and they know only one song, ‘Zombie’ by the Cranberries. I’m off at 5.30. Great!

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

Another great instalment G&T

A closet Stranglers fan I see

 

[G&T]

A closet Stranglers fan I see

Well spotted

 

[JulesDive]

‘I can’t get no sleep’

Thanks to the generosity of a ‘tosser’, you know who you are, my slightly discounted trip on Brittany Ferries is here.

Not too early, not too late, the bowels of the Pont Aven beckons.

What a feeling it is to ride down the ramp into the warm underbelly of your host for the night. Of course there is the sharp wake-up call to mind the cables, metal pucks and scattered cushions. A bloody assault course in other words and then there’s the ratchet strap, a chinese puzzle to sort the men from the boys.

Now, the luxury minded of you will of course have booked the Commodore class cabin, with your private sofa and shower. Not me, oh no, I’m solo this time so I’ve taken the budget priced ‘Lounge Chair’ for €7 along with a few other hardy travellers.

View attachment 294776

There is something special about boats and its passengers compared with air travel. Maybe it’s the time to talk, to share expectations, to roam around.

Well, I can tell you a room full of people in the lounge learned something about each other in the night. I have spent countless hours on plane chairs that recline and support and that was my expectation here. Not this time! I could not find a comfy position no matter how hard I tried. The Karma Sutra is nothing compared with the leg positions I entertained to try and sleep. Observing the awkward movements of my fellow room-mates was akin to a scene from a praying mantra sex act – unsightly.

But worse, way worse was the young lady in seat row 1c. Could she snore! All night bellowed the lungs of a hippo. Even her boyfriend got up and moved. So what with the seat and the snoring it was a horror show that should have been PG rated for the sensitive and infirm.

Yes the reclining chairs are notoriously uncomfortable for sleeping. I’ve noticed that frequent passengers book one then unroll and use a sleeping mat somewhere else… to avoid the snoring.


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[wessie]

Yes the reclining chairs are notoriously uncomfortable for sleeping. I’ve noticed that frequent passengers book one then unroll and use a sleeping mat somewhere else… to avoid the snoring.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

prime location is to sneak into the kids' soft play area once they have all been dragged out by parents - I used to do this on the Economie service from Portsmouth to Le Havre when I was younger and cared less about comforts. Now, I pay for a cabin.

 

[G&T]

Forgotten lands



Caceres. Early bird start for D’WFR and me in the fantastically cool air. Brimmed with Portugal’s finest 20-25 cents a litre more than Spain’s petrol we head North before the heat kicks in.

Through Cork woods and wide open spaces, through olive farms and almond trees only broken by silhouettes of huge churches dotted in each village.





Kilometres and kilometres of straight ‘N’ roads pump us North, as straight and as far as I can see. Big distance is here, let alone ‘Big Sky.’ It’s the centre land, the interior, no tourists – just me.



I’m criss-crossing two brave countries, Spain and Portugal toward my destination of conquistador territory that is medieval Caceres.

It shall be the pleasure of La Boheme hotel tonight in the centre and another attic room. It’s on the fourth floor and I swear the hoteliers look at me and think I’m the least likely of all their customers who will have a heart attack.

As I’m slap bang in the thick of it there’s no parking nearby for D’WFR. I normally chance it and parking can be right outside but not this time. Her snooze is in a little resident square 100m away to the sound of exquisite Spanish guitar....

Back in Spain and I’m reminded this land doesn’t eat till 9pm or later and I’m starving, so it’s a café for me and time for a wander.





Sunday night and in the U.K. people are getting ready for work on Monday, but not in Spain. Here, it’s still party time. I’ll go and check on D’WFR and sit under the street light in the cooling night. There really is so much life here, where all that matters is family and food.

 

[G&T]

The Golden one - Salamanca



Salamanca. This is the jewel. I’ve read and seen pictures of this spectacular city and needed to explore. I’m headed just South of the city to the Puenta Romano bridge - built 27BC, and the Puento Romano hotel.

I try to imagine what it must have been like for Pilgrims and locals walking across this bridge, across the Tormes river, to get to the city and the cathedral beyond. Stone walls as yellow as the afternoon sun guard its secrets whilst swifts and swallows whistle your entrance.

Is there anywhere more magical! It is warm but more, it feels warm.




Carved statues of Saints and heavenly bodies look down seemingly to examine one’s thoughts, words and deeds. The promise of the kingdom of heaven is here.




8C in the morning and the previous day’s warmth is soon lost but it’ll be back and along with my appetite it’s breakfast time. Croissant, marmalade and coffee is my perfect holiday breakfast. Notice I say, ‘holiday.’ Is this the end of the ‘adventure!’

Convento San Estaban provides the next shade and calm for a sketch. But, it’s also to marvel at the fact that Christopher Columbus stayed here as he was presenting his proof to university geographers that he had, in fact, reached the Americas. Given the amount of bullion that came back I think he got his expenses paid.





Families, children, students and the well-heeled roam the city and upon sunset settle to eat just as the swifts and swallows call out across the roofs for their own to return.




I even find the perfect gentleman’s outfitters.



Life is really alive here. It feels safe, non-threatening, smart and courteous. Viva La Vida.

 

[G&T]

Back to the start



Onward to Santillana del Mar and D’WFR’s final run North in Spain.

It’s back to the Posada Araceli where the hosts are so lovely and familiarity along with a good sleep before the ferry is a must. You guessed it – I’m going to be in ‘The Seat.’

What should have been a few hours from Salamanca took six or more. Every opportunity to wind off the main roads to join country lanes and stay in this fabulous country - I took.

I don’t want this to end. As Robert Pirsig from ‘Zen...’ said, “Biking, it’s like being in the movie, not watching it.” I want to be in the movie, be Peter Pan, be Gladiator, be Sting, be Evel Knievel! But I’m not, none of us are, but for these few weeks of adventure.



So here I am, 2500 miles later, all the creature comforts of home and a head brimming with memories.

Criss-crossing the Caminos hasn’t been ‘a challenge’ but rather a confirmation that freedom is a daily practice. It’s not guaranteed, nothing is, but every once in a while I hope you find a way to ‘Tap your petrol tank’ and be thankful that you are where you want to be.

All the best G&T & D’WFR

 

[Khulu]

Great write-up and photos - many thanks for doing this. I'm in the middle of writing-up my second tour this summer and I rode some of the same roads as you. Hot (to say the least), dry and empty but good road conditions. Eating late is also an issue to me that I'm not used to either as is arriving mid-afternoon to closed facilities! I also, generally, ride alone and, as I'm sure you know, it has both advantages and disadvantages.
Until next summer!

 

[G&T]

Great write-up and photos - many thanks for doing this. I'm in the middle of writing-up my second tour this summer and I rode some of the same roads as you. Hot (to say the least), dry and empty but good road conditions. Eating late is also an issue to me that I'm not used to either as is arriving mid-afternoon to closed facilities! I also, generally, ride alone and, as I'm sure you know, it has both advantages and disadvantages.
Until next summer!

Thank you. I look forward to reading your RR Khulu. Helps us through the winter months

 

[José]

I enjoyed that also, thank you.
My first vets over here was in Salamanca, it is a lovely place and only three hours from me.
I am stopping to take photo`s now...I have never been good at taking photos, too busy doing and usually forget, or think....That looks good, I shall take a photo on the way back, but then head back a different way!

 

[Rockred]

I’ve really enjoyed reading this RR, it’s jogged a few memories from my trips around that part of Spain and Portugal. Cáceres is a gem of a place, there is a small town called Trujillo just east of Cáceres that’s a mini version, but well worth a visit. Extremadura is where most of the Conquistadors came from.

Salamanca has 2 Cathedrals, both are beautiful, one has a carving of a spaceman on the main entrance to it. It was obviously carved not that long ago, but worth having a look.

Many thanks for taking the time to post it all up.

.

 

[G&T]

I enjoyed that also, thank you.
My first vets over here was in Salamanca, it is a lovely place and only three hours from me.
I am stopping to take photo`s now...I have never been good at taking photos, too busy doing and usually forget, or think....That looks good, I shall take a photo on the way back, but then head back a different way!

Thank you.
Photos were taken on an old phone - it’s just what I had to jog my memory of spectacular scenery. Good enough.

The times I’d ride by a great view and think should’ve taken a pic there were too many to mention but I wasn’t on an assignment so it didn’t matter.... I saw that view and that was all that mattered.

 

[G&T]

I’ve really enjoyed reading this RR, it’s jogged a few memories from my trips around that part of Spain and Portugal. Cáceres is a gem of a place, there is a small town called Trujillo just east of Cáceres that’s a mini version, but well worth a visit. Extremadura is where most of the Conquistadors came from.

Salamanca has 2 Cathedrals, both are beautiful, one has a carving of a spaceman on the main entrance to it. It was obviously carved not that long ago, but worth having a look.

Many thanks for taking the time to post it all up.

.View attachment 296601

Thank you.
There is a lovely NH hotel that I can recommend in Trujillo if you are out that way again. This part of the world is magnificent

 

[Si Yates]

Cracking report thanks for taking the time to post, Salamanca takes me back a few years twas that hot with the bike gear on it was like boil in the bag, ahh happy days!

 

[Davey B]

What a great thread/trip. Thanks for taking time and care to post and write it up so well. The personal sketches just add that little cherry on top. Brilliant, life affirming stuff.

 

[G&T]

Cracking report thanks for taking the time to post, Salamanca takes me back a few years twas that hot with the bike gear on it was like boil in the bag, ahh happy days!

Thank you.
Salamanca is a real gem. I’ve promised Sally a return trip. I would say to anyone...”you gotta go”,

 

[G&T]

What a great thread/trip. Thanks for taking time and care to post and write it up so well. The personal sketches just add that little cherry on top. Brilliant, life affirming stuff.

Thanks Davey.
That little act of sitting down to scribble takes me back to the view in 8k memory.

 

[Davey B]

Thanks Davey.
That little act of sitting down to scribble takes me back to the view in 8k memory.

Rather selfishly, I like to do a trip report mainly for me, in later months/years when I relive the experience......others can have a nosy too, but mainly it's for me.