Just completed the ABS removal and got out after work for an hour. The brakes work/feel fine. Always a good thing!
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Post ABS removal test ride this evening
- Thread starter steve g
- Start date
Which ABS removal method did you use? (do you have any documentation on the process?)
No documentation. Ive some pictures if that helps. I retained the ECU module off the end of the ABS pump so no wiring involved really. Just bought a copper "link" pipe from Motorworks and make my own ECU cover which I sealed in place. Drop me a PM if you want photos.
Did you do a thread here about it? (I couldn't find one).
Where was the copper pipe used?
Interesting vid.
Seems easy enough - but I can't help wondering what else the "General engine warning" light is triggered by, and thus now, not notifying him of.
By keeping the ABS ECU, it saves having to re wire the front and rear brake microswitches to operate the brake light.
The General warning triangle will warn of a rear brake or tail light failure whilst at the same time allowing the ECU to control the lights. When a filament fails, the ECU not only puts out a warning, but will allow the remaining filament to act as a dual tail/brake light by modulating the current.
So by covering the warning light the rider will be unaware of a filament failure, but the ECU will continue to control the Brake/Tail lights.
Ian Indeed, this function I tested, open circuiting the rear tail light and sure enough the brake light came on, but no dash warning of course.
Sorry no thread, but theres a few videos on Youtube. The copper pipe is used on the front brake circuit when you remove to rigid brake pipework to and from the ABS pump front brake circuit. No need for anything (other than new copper washers) on the rear brake as the existing flexible hose connected straight onto the rear cylinder.
Great timing.
I bought a second 2000 R1150GS (Australian Import into NZ) recently and am in the process of going over it to see what needs doing to it.
It is stolen recovered and is missing a seat, indicators, broken pillion bracket and smashed ign, fuel and seat lock.
So far I have fixed everything upto the locks but I have them and a few bits on order from Motorworks.
But it has had its ABS removed and is certified with it removed, a necessity here in NZ.
What I noticed recently was the ABS light has been covered but the bulb is still in and glows when the bike is running.
What harm is there in removing the bulb as it is covered anyway and the leaking redglow will bug me at night.
Thanks
Adrian
I bought a second 2000 R1150GS (Australian Import into NZ) recently and am in the process of going over it to see what needs doing to it.
It is stolen recovered and is missing a seat, indicators, broken pillion bracket and smashed ign, fuel and seat lock.
So far I have fixed everything upto the locks but I have them and a few bits on order from Motorworks.
But it has had its ABS removed and is certified with it removed, a necessity here in NZ.
What I noticed recently was the ABS light has been covered but the bulb is still in and glows when the bike is running.
What harm is there in removing the bulb as it is covered anyway and the leaking redglow will bug me at night.
Thanks
Adrian
My 1150 GSA (previously servo abs) has had it done and all the brake works ok, but the brakes now aren’t as sharp as my factory non ABS bike, on front brakes
Rear brake power is the same on both bikes
I guess it’s maybe the difference in front brake pipe work and to get then the same, you would have to fit front brake lines from a non abs bike
Rear brake power is the same on both bikes
I guess it’s maybe the difference in front brake pipe work and to get then the same, you would have to fit front brake lines from a non abs bike
Remove both ABS and fault bulbs along with the ABS relay (in the fuse box).
It could be the lines are tired (even braided lines degrade in time).
It could be the calipers need some cleaning, are they Tokico or Brembo? I've found that Brembo definitely give better braking and longer maintenance intervals.
If could be the pads (are they the same compound?)
It could be the discs (worn discs tend to reduce the braking efficiency somewhat).
If you have the "link-pipe" (shown in that video) I've found that they're a bugger to bleed so I fit my bikes with the simple 2-line setup with a double-banjo at the master-cylinder and a single line directly to each caliper. Only 1 "junction" and very simple bleeding makes for excellent brakes.
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Your last suggestion sounds good
Both bikes are same age (2005) and running BMW’s oem Pads
Just for anyone else finding this thread....
Motorworks sell a cover for the ECU:
And a complete bracket kit if you don't want to replace the lines.
So you can spend £200 on something that cost me a fiverJust for anyone else finding this thread....
Motorworks sell a cover for the ECU:
And a complete bracket kit if you don't want to replace the lines.
I suppose if you ever wanted to reinstall the dogshit servo brakes it might make sense, but then you should beat yourself on the head with a lump hammer if you consider reinstalling that awful braking system.
Best mod you can do to an 1150 along with removing that overly tight cable tie near the headstock
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